La Porte des Indes

32, Bryanston Street
London
W1H 7EG

Tel.: +44 20 7224 0055
Fax.: +44 20 7224 1144

Tuesday 29th January 2002

Waiting staff, young ladies dressed in Indian garb, look inviting. They take my coat and lead me through the ground floor to about halfway back in the restaurant.

It is quite plush, extravagantly detailed with large palms, a water feature and uniformed waiters.

I'm conscious that I'll have to be careful if I don't want any grief when the boss checks out the expense claim, so I examine the menu carefully.

Surprisingly, the dishes do not seem as expensive as the surroundings would indicate.

I ask for a beer, and select a half of draft kingfisher.

Bombay Chat for starters. This was served on a dish on a raised basket, which made it awkward, for me, to eat. The dish was fresh and tasty, but I found there was a "jammy" sweetness which I could have done without.

Main course of Monkfish in Green Coconut sauce with Pilau rice was beautifully presented.

The Monkfish was meaty and nicely cooked, but I found the sauce just a little bland. The pilau rice was, to my mind, too brightly coloured - but maybe that was the lighting? There was no problem with the flavour or texture.

I also had a bowl of Raita. I'd asked the waiter if it really went with the Monkfish dish, and he shrugged. I took this to mean that it probably didn't, but I went for it anyway, as I find that the yoghourt has a very beneficial effect on my troublesome digestion.

Finish with a coffee - a large espresso which was remarkably good - a surprise in an Indian restaurant, but I suppose that they would claim their French influence was showing.

Had I been earlier, feeling more relaxed, I would have loved to have tried something from the French - Indian fusion aspects of the menu. These dishes all sounded intriguing, and I suppose that I now have an excuse to visit again as soon as the opportunity arises.

A bill of £37 inclusive was not going to spoil my sleep that night.

Verdict: Impressive setting for an Indian Restaurant, Good menu, Good Service.

Sandro