This is going to be an odd restaurant review, because it relates to a meal I had almost a year ago, before I got involved in writing reviews. This means that I can't remember much detail about the dishes we had (bar one) Nevertheless, I hope you find it interesting.

On a business trip to London, I had arranged to meet an old friend, and my brother, for an evening out. Although I had ideas of spending the evening in one of the more renowned restaurants (something like L'Escargot) - just to be able to say I'd been there, we were unable to convince ourselves to "spend that much money"!

Wandering around Soho, we came across Biagio Chez Victor - by this time, we were getting restless, so decided to try it.

The restaurant is split into French / Italian sections, and, being of Italian descent, we tried the ground floor Italian.

From what I remember of the menu, it was varied enough, and I know I enjoyed the starter and main course. A brief discussion with the Maitre d' established that the wine list he had presented was not exhaustive, and that he had "a rather nice Amarone downstairs". Although this was considerably more expensive than the wines I normally go for, the occasion warranted a "gesture". It was, in my opinion, worth it.

During the meal, we established a continuous exchange with the maitre d', and this really did make the evening. He made us all feel part of the furniture (in the best possible way!). Better was to come.

By the time we were ready for dessert, we were so sated that nothing really appealed, so, almost in jest, I asked whether he had Zabaglione on the menu. When he replied in the affirmative, I checked that he didn't mean the frozen abberation that is common in lesser restaurants. He was almost offended, and assured us that he would make it fresh, at the table, and that we had better not be in league with Edwina Currie!!

This was a fine end to the evening - he made a most impressive show of lighting a large alcohol burner under an even larger polished copper cauldron - all to make me a single Zabaglione. And it was delicious.

Of course, having established a "rapport", the Maitre d' realised that we Italians need a good coffee, and a good Grappa, to really finish a meal, and these flowed freely.

When my wife found out that not only was the bill over £120, but that I had "treated" my brother, she was flabbergasted. It took some effort to explain to her that £40 per head inclusive, in London, was *not* expensive. Well, that and promising to take her there when we next were in London!

I suppose the point of this review is that it is not only the quality of the food that makes a meal enjoyable. The food itself, the hosts and the diners play equal parts in the success, and when I find a restaurant that excels in two of the three, I'm on to a winner. Had the food been below par, I could still probably have "overlooked" it, and enjoyed the evening, thanks to the attention of the staff.

Verdict: I'll go there again - and again!!!

Sandro Melkuhn